I have the opportunity to do a couple of tarmac stage events next year and the possibility of a road rally. Has anyone out there done anything of this nature or got any tips for suspension set up. The car presently runs in the sprint / hillclimb championship with five leaf springs with Spax adjustables on the back and normal springs with Spax adjustables on the front with @ 1degree neg camber. Holden axle with limited slip diff.
Rob Toon
Rallying a Plus 8
-
Barry Sumner
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 6:01 pm
Re: Rallying a Plus 8
Morgans are well equipped for rally’s, the factory rallied then a lot and they have also been out and about in events like the Pirelli classic marathons - the preparation is really about making sure everything is done up tight and nothing chaffing, check between events.
For sure if the car is driven hard, competitively, it gets a hard life especially if it’s a long road rally.– sprints – hill climbs & races are not as hard on the car in my book.
On the tyre front don’t over tyre it, it wants to be a chuck able as possible.
Hope this helps
Barry
For sure if the car is driven hard, competitively, it gets a hard life especially if it’s a long road rally.– sprints – hill climbs & races are not as hard on the car in my book.
On the tyre front don’t over tyre it, it wants to be a chuck able as possible.
Hope this helps
Barry
-
David Rushton
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2009 2:49 pm
- Anti spam question: MSA
Re: Rallying a Plus 8
I did a couple of seasons historic rallying my +8 you will need the following
1) A sump guard located from the bottom cross tube of the front suspension to the cross member at the bulkhead mine is made from 3/16 ordinary "black sheet steel", available from any steel stockholder it must be rigid enough to support the weight of the front of the car!!, as on some rallies you will find the road surface so bad that you'll push the car along on the guard.
2) A Petrol Tank guard made from the same material. The front leading edge should be turned up approx 3" or 75mm between the tank and the back axle.
3) A set of 5 steel wheels. Buy a set of Rover P6 wheels grind out the welds that hold the rims on the centres and reverse them this gives you the correct off set for a 70s/80s +8 being a 14 " rim there are loads of options on forest/stage tyres.
4) Make sure the hand brake is up to scratch.YOU WILL NEED IT!!!.
5) Car set up generaly make it as soft as possible ( yes I know Morgans soft is everyone elses rock solid)
6) A brake bias bar,ajustable from the dash with separate brake circuits for front & rear. You will need 2 separate master cylinders.
I wish you all the best, it's good fun and let us know how you get on
Regards David
1) A sump guard located from the bottom cross tube of the front suspension to the cross member at the bulkhead mine is made from 3/16 ordinary "black sheet steel", available from any steel stockholder it must be rigid enough to support the weight of the front of the car!!, as on some rallies you will find the road surface so bad that you'll push the car along on the guard.
2) A Petrol Tank guard made from the same material. The front leading edge should be turned up approx 3" or 75mm between the tank and the back axle.
3) A set of 5 steel wheels. Buy a set of Rover P6 wheels grind out the welds that hold the rims on the centres and reverse them this gives you the correct off set for a 70s/80s +8 being a 14 " rim there are loads of options on forest/stage tyres.
4) Make sure the hand brake is up to scratch.YOU WILL NEED IT!!!.
5) Car set up generaly make it as soft as possible ( yes I know Morgans soft is everyone elses rock solid)
6) A brake bias bar,ajustable from the dash with separate brake circuits for front & rear. You will need 2 separate master cylinders.
I wish you all the best, it's good fun and let us know how you get on
Regards David